Watermelon Scotch Stitch Plastic Canvas Mug Rug Free Pattern

Learn how to cut and stitch a watermelon themed mug rug that is perfect to sit your coffee/tea on and a sweet treat on this Summer, or use as a doily.

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Inspired by my crocheted Watermelon Slice Applique and Watermelon Slice Sunglass Pouch, I wanted to create a similar pattern in plastic canvas that featured the same outer green border, inner white border and a red section with raised seeds.

In my crocheted versions, I used a bobble stitch to create a raised bump for the seeds. What stitch could I use in plastic canvas to resemble a raised bump?

Then I thought back to last year when I started on a 4th of July tissue box cover (that’s still in my WIP bin). I combined my favorite stitch, the alternating scotch stitch, with a sweet little Smyrna Cross Stitch in the center. With the stitches crossing over each other a couple of times in the Smyrna Cross Stitch, it does raise the stitch slightly from the rest of the fabric, but also, the way the scotch stitches frame the Smyrna Cross Stitch, it makes it stand out a bit more too. Perfect!

The alternating scotch stitch can be done in different numbers of stitches, but to get more detail, I went with boxes of 4 stitches, which falls right into my Scottie Shane series. Now, Scottie Shane does not typically include the Smyrna Cross Stitch so I’ve put together 3 pattern options for you so there is a plain version for a seedless watermelon, which will be the most mindless of the stitch patterns, plus two seeded options, the one in the photos, which is going to be the second easiest, and then one with an extra row of seeds in the center that are staggered, which require just a little bit more attention in stitching.

I just love the texture that’s created by alternating the direction of the boxes, and by working longer stitches, this mug rug works up fairly quickly, especially compared to say a continental stitch mug rug.

What is a Mug Rug and How is a Mug Rug Different from a Coaster?

As I shared progress photos of this mug rug in Facebook groups, I received a lot of questions as to why my “coaster” was so long, so let’s talk about it! A mug rug is like a coaster in that it does hold your drink, but it’s oversized so it can also hold a tasty treat at the same time, like a mini placemat if you will. It keeps everything in one place, and your surface clean and free of crumbs.

Ranging is sizes from 4″ by 6″ up to 8″ by 10″, mug rugs don’t stop at being used for coffee and a snack. They are great little mats, similar to doilies, that work for all sorts of items like a vase, plant, candle, pen holder, makeup and lotions and more! Mug rugs could easily work in any room of the house, and make great gifts too!

This mug rug is a part of the 2026 Fun & Fruity Crafting Event.

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Materials:

Small Amounts of a Worsted Weight #4 Yarn – I used Lion Brand Pound of Love in the Winter Green, White, Cherry and Black colorways
Piece of 7 Mesh Clear Plastic Canvas that is 49 holes by 33 holes or 7 1/2″ by 5 1/8″
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Optional: Felt or Fabric for back, though I did not line mine
Optional: Tape Measure

Material Notes:

You may be wondering, what is the best yarn to use to stitch a plastic canvas mug rug? With all of the cottons I’ve tried being too thin for 7 mesh plastic canvas, I typically reach for acrylic or wool yarns from my yarn stash for plastic canvas mug rugs (and coasters). My chosen Lion Brand Pound of Love Yarn is a 100% acrylic yarn, and I have a several coasters and mug rugs I’ve made for myself using Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, which is also a 100% acrylic yarn and probably the most common yarn to use when it comes to working plastic canvas projects. A hot cup of coffee is not hot enough to melt synthetic fibers, and while it doesn’t quite absorb the same way as cotton does with cold beverages, it still holds the water and does not seep through to the surface. Lion Brand Wool Ease is another lovely yarn for mug rugs that I have used for some in my personal collection, and the wool adds to the durability and absorbency.

If you don’t have any worsted weight yarn to spare, you can hold two strands of lightweight yarn together, and stitch the same way with it, or hold one strand and work two passes per stitch.

If you aren’t familiar with Lion Brand Pound of Love, it is so large with so much yardage packed into one skein that it last practically forever when it comes to needlepointing! Think of the size of Caron One Pound, but much softer and a little bit fluffier.

Lion Brand Pound of Love Yarn is a soft, acrylic worsted weight yarn that comes in a one pound ball. One pound means you won’t need many skeins to get projects done! Just one ball makes a baby blanket, or 2-3 scarves or shawls, or lots of beanies! You’ll also love that this yarn is machine washable and dryable! One ball contains 1,020 yards or 454 grams.

7 count of 7 mesh plastic canvas comes in a soft version and stiff version as well as many canvas sizes and colors that other mesh sizes don’t. The 7 means that 7 holes equal 1″ wide and tall. It’s the most popular mesh size and is excellent for a variety of projects. When working with 7 mesh, you’ll want to use a worsted weight #4 yarn with a size #18 tapestry needle that has a blunt tip.

Can I use 5 mesh or 10 mesh plastic canvas instead? If you wanted to change up the size plastic canvas, use a respective size tapestry needle and yarn. For size 10 mesh plastic canvas, I would recommend a #20 or #22 tapestry needle and a lightweight #3 yarn, like Premier Yarns Basix DK, and work more boxes using the stitch multiple to achieve similar sizing. You absolutely could also use a size 5 mesh plastic canvas with a #16 or #18 tapestry needle and a chunky weight #5 yarn, like Premier Yarns Basix Chunky or Lion Brand Hue and Me, but do note, it will come out on the larger size for a mug rug, approximately 6 3/4″ by 10″, following the same pattern as the 7 mesh and I would not recommend sizing down as it would lose detail and the proportion.

Tapestry Needles with the blunt, round end are essential for sewing and finishing in needlepointing on fabric and plastic canvas. The blunt, rounded end allows the needle to pass easily through the holes on canvas and the fabric created by the yarn without snagging (or getting your fingers) in the process. The long oval eye makes threading strands of yarn easier, though you may still want to use a needle threader.

Scissors are an essential tool. In my notions pouch, I always have a pair of lightweight, all-purpose scissors as they are so versatile and great for a variety of things from cutting plastic canvas mesh to cutting yarn strands and trimming yarn ends after weaving in to cutting out a care tag to include with a handmade gift.

For a cleaner back, you could cut and attach some felt or fabric, or even cut an extra piece of clear or colored plastic canvas mesh. leave it unworked and whipstitch it to the top in the finishing process.

If you don’t want to count the holes on your canvas for cutting and you don’t want to stitch it first and then cut, you can use a tape measure to measure the canvas holes following the measurements provided and make a mark on the canvas so you know where to cut.

How to Wash Plastic Canvas Mug Rugs?

I’ve had mug rugs and coasters with light coffee stains on them as well as with deep soda stains on them, and with a little spot cleaning, I’ve been able to make them good as new! Grab a damp towel or paper towel, and dab a couple times onto the mug rug, then dab with a dry towel or paper towel and reassess. You may need to do it a couple times until the stain comes out. If it’s a tougher stain, you can use a gentle soap, like Dawn, on your damp towel. Repeat the same process, and once your stain is out, go back in with just a damp towel to work the soap out. Press with a dry towel to get out as much water as possible, and then lay flat to dry.

Alternatively, you can fill a bowl with some soapy water (I like to use cold like room temperature water, but you’ll find many others say warm water), and soap the mug rug for about 10 minutes. Empty the bowl, and fill with just water, and rinse the mug rug. I do not like to run the mug rugs directly under running water as it can be too abrasive. Press with a dry towel to get out as much water as possible, and then lay flat to dry.

Now, if you have a lining on the back of your mug rug, like fabric, felt or cork, you’ll need to consider that when you are cleaning, how those items and/or the method of adhering it onto your mug rug will hold up to your cleaning method or supplies.

As much all you’ll want to, make sure when cleaning not to try to rub the stain out or use anything that is too abrasive, like a brush, otherwise, you’ll find that your yarn will pill, fray or felt (depending on the fiber) and could look very worn and icky.

Time Spent:

About 1 hour, 30 minutes.

The whipstitch is about 30 minutes with the remainder of the time being the scotch stitch.

Measurements:

7 1/2″ Wide by 5 1/8″ Tall

Prior to adding the whipstitch, the mug rug is about 1/8″ smaller.

Special Stitches:

The Scotch Stitch is a series of diagonal stitches that create a box. You start in the top corner working from one box diagonally into the very next hole with no holes in between, just like a continental stitch. For the second stitch, you bring your needle up in the hole next to where you did the first time, work diagonally over skipping one hole in the middle and finishing by inserting your needle into the hole that is underneath where your previous stitch was worked.

Now you continue working in this manner until you get 4 stitches wide and tall (or any number of stitches if you want to change up the size of the box). Once you reach your desired width, in this case 4 stitches, then start decreasing the box back down so for the next stitch you’ll bring your needle up the hole that is underneath where you previously did, skipping one less hole as you work diagonally over, and insert your needle into the hole next to where you previously worked. You will see an edge start forming along the side and bottom.

The Smyrna Cross Stitch is essentially an “X”, typical in cross stitching, and a plus sign, “+” worked over 3 holes with the needle coming up through one hole, skipping one hole in the center and coming down the next hole. The proper way of doing it is to work the X first starting in the bottom left corner diagonally upward to the right followed by the bottom right corner diagonally upward to the left, then the plus sign worked over top, but I like to work mine starting at the top center stitch and working clockwise so top to bottom first, diagonally from the top right to the bottom left, right to left horizontally, then diagonally from the bottom right to the top left. I just like the look of the stitch a bit more this way.

Pattern Notes:

If you want to change up the size plastic canvas, for a 5 mesh, I would recommend following the pattern as written for a larger mug rug, otherwise sizing down loses detail and the proportion for this design and for a 10 mesh, I would recommend adding holes to the pattern in 4’s so the total number of holes is still divisible by 4 plus 1. Really, with the basic rectangle shape, the easiest way to adjust it is to stitch it first, and then cut it so you don’t have to stress about the math part and potentially not cutting the right number of stitches – this is my preferred method even when using the 7 mesh the mug rug was designed in.

I recommend your anchor stitch and final end of each strand be about 2″ long, or about the length of 2 boxes, as the longer stitches from the scotch stitch are a little looser than say a continental stitch and we don’t want our tail end to slip out. In the event that it does, the 2″ length will be easier to grab and weave back in under the stitches.

View & Download the Cut Graph, Stitch Graph & PDF:

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Scotch Stitch Watermelon Mug Rug Plastic Canvas Tutorial:

You can either stitch the mug rug first and then cut later, or cut the plastic canvas rectangle out first, and then stitch.

To cut first, cut a rectangle out that is 49 holes wide by 33 holes tall, or 7 1/2″ wide by 5 1/8″ tall.

Following the stitch chart, work using the Alternating Scotch Stitch for the green and white sections and a modified Alternating Scotch Stitch in the red section with the Smyrna Cross Stitch as seeds when the smallest stitches of the Scotch Stitch come together.

I worked the green outer border first starting in the top left corner, working down the side, across the bottom, up the other side and then across the top back to the beginning. You will have 8 boxes tall by 12 boxes wide.

Then, I followed the same starting point and path as the green but with white for the inner border. You will have 6 boxes tall by 10 boxes wide.

Next, I started with red in the top left corner and worked down and then back up, and with these two rows, it created one full square to use as a guide. I continued stitching across to the right filling adding 3 more sections. You will have 4 boxes tall by 8 boxes wide.

After the red was complete, I went back in with the black to work my seeds using the Smyrna Cross Stitch. The mug rug in my photos is the Inline Seeds version with just two horizontal rows of 4 seeds each. Because of the direction I worked my Smyrna Cross Stitch starting at the top center point and working around clockwise, I finished my last stitch just to the left of the first stitch so to avoid carrying my black strand too much on the back, I worked the top row first from right to left, finished off and then repeated for the bottom row.

There are two other watermelon stitch patterns within the pattern where the inner red section is a little different:

The Solid Scotch Stitch version is seedless so it’s the same Alternating Scotch Stitch boxes as the outer borders within the entire red section.
The Staggered Seed version has an additional row of Smyrna Cross Stitch seeds staggered in the center of the Inline Seeds version, with 3 additional seeds.
Choose the one you like best or make all 3 for a fun variety!

After you finish all of your boxes, whipstitch around to finish – if you have not cut your canvas, you’ll want to do that first, and then whipstitch. I completed my whipstitch in green to blend in with the outer border, but you could add a pop of color here using one of the other colors from within the mug rug.

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